Does Solar Make Sense For Your Home?
An interactive calculator that estimates a Tucson home's electricity use from ordinary details — square footage, whether the furnace, water heater and range run on gas or electric, whether a pool heater is gas or electric — then sizes a rooftop solar system, prices it under 2026 incentives and Tucson Electric Power export rates, and compares the payback year against how long the owner actually plans to stay, explaining what a cash, financed, or leased system does to a future home sale.
What this calculator asks
Every question is one a homeowner can answer from memory — no utility bill, rate schedule, or installer quote required. Annual electricity consumption is modelled from the answers rather than asked for directly, because almost nobody knows their own kilowatt-hours. Nothing is emailed, stored, or required to see the full answer.
- Your house — square footage, roughly when it was built, how many people live there, and how cold you keep it in summer.
- What runs on electricity — whether the air conditioning is refrigerated or evaporative, whether the furnace, water heater and kitchen range are gas or electric, whether there is a pool and if its heater burns gas or runs on electricity, and how many electric cars charge at home. Gas appliances barely register on an electric bill, so these answers move the result more than anything else: a gas pool heater adds almost nothing to the electric meter because the heat itself is therms, while an electric heat-pump heater roughly doubles the pool's draw.
- Your roof — roughly which way it faces (with a 'not sure' option that still works), how much shade it gets, and how old the covering is.
- How you would pay — cash, a solar loan, or a lease/PPA, plus whether to add a battery.
- Your plans — how many more years you expect to own the home.
A homeowner who does know their average monthly bill can enter it, and the modelled estimate steps aside in favour of the real number.
Why Tucson solar math changed in 2026
Two changes push honest payback in Tucson to roughly 19 to 22 years for a cash purchase, well past the six to eight years commonly advertised. The first is federal: the One Big Beautiful Bill, signed July 4, 2025, terminated the Section 25D residential clean energy credit for systems placed in service after December 31, 2025, with no phase-down. A homeowner who buys with cash or a loan today receives nothing from the IRS. Only third-party ownership still reaches a credit, through the installer's Section 48E, which is why lease and PPA offers have grown more aggressive relative to purchase offers.
The second is local. Arizona ended retail net metering in 2016, and Tucson Electric Power now credits exported power at the Resource Comparison Proxy rate — about $0.057 per kilowatt-hour, locked for ten years from the interconnection request — against a retail rate near $0.14. A kilowatt-hour consumed the moment it is generated is worth roughly two and a half times one sent to the grid. The practical consequence surprises most homeowners: a system covering ninety percent of annual usage typically cuts the bill by only about half, because most of what it makes at midday is exported at the lower rate rather than used in the house.
What a system costs in Tucson, and how big to build
Budget roughly $3.00 per watt installed, which puts an 8 kW system near $24,000 and a 12 kW system near $34,000 before incentives. Price per watt falls as the array grows, because permitting, design, the inverter and the crew cost about the same either way — expect closer to $4.00 per watt on a very small system and under $2.90 on a large one. The spread between installers is wider than the spread between sizes: national brands typically quote $3.00 to $3.30 per watt while established local Tucson companies come in nearer $2.50 to $2.75 for comparable equipment.
That makes system size a smaller decision than most homeowners assume. Sliding the same house from a quarter of its annual usage up to a full offset moves the break-even year by about two years and the twenty-five-year result by roughly a thousand dollars. Two effects cancel: a larger array exports more of its output at the low $0.057 rate, which hurts, but it also spreads the fixed installation costs across more panels, which helps. The calculator puts size on a slider next to the twenty-five-year totals so the flatness of that trade-off is visible rather than asserted. Getting a second written quote is worth several times more than agonising over panel count.
Twenty-five years of solar versus twenty-five years of electric bills
The comparison solar proposals leave out is the one against doing nothing, which is not free — a Tucson electric bill escalating at three percent a year is itself a five-figure commitment over twenty-five years. The calculator totals every route all in: the system plus whatever utility bill remains afterward, since solar never removes the basic service charge and never offsets every kilowatt-hour.
On a typical Tucson home the ranking is consistent. Paying cash finishes several thousand dollars ahead of staying on the utility. The same system on a fifteen-year loan at current rates can finish thousands of dollars behind never having installed it at all, because the interest costs more than the electricity it saves. A twenty-year lease or PPA usually lands between the two and close to a wash, while adding the resale complications described below. The financing decision, in other words, matters more to the final number than the solar decision does.
Payback versus how long you are staying
This is the comparison the calculator leads with, and the one most solar quotes omit. A system that breaks even in year 14 is a good investment for an owner staying twenty years and a poor one for an owner selling in six — the same hardware, the same roof, opposite answers. The tool reports the break-even year, the cumulative position at the year you expect to sell, and the position at twenty-five years, so the decision rests on your timeline rather than on a generic payback figure.
What each ownership path does at closing
- Owned outright (cash)
- The simplest system to sell. The array conveys with the house like any other fixture, there is no UCC-1 fixture filing for escrow to clear, and an appraiser can credit it — though the amount comes from comparable sales rather than from what was spent. Arizona also exempts the added value of a solar energy device from property tax assessment under A.R.S. § 42-11054.
- Financed (solar loan)
- The system is owned, but most solar loans place a UCC-1 fixture filing against the property. It must be paid off, released, or subordinated at closing so the buyer's mortgage stays in first position, and the payoff comes out of the seller's proceeds. Owing more than the system adds to the sale price is the most common way solar loses money on a Tucson sale.
- Leased or PPA
- The hardest version to sell. The homeowner does not own the system, so appraisers typically assign it no value. The buyer must qualify for and assume the agreement — credit check, installer consent, and usually a transfer fee — or the seller buys out the remaining term from proceeds. It narrows the buyer pool, and transfer requests need to start well before going under contract.
Getting a solar loan or lease off the house when you sell
Underwriting draws one line and everything follows from it. Fannie Mae's Selling Guide B2-3-04 and Freddie Mac's Guide § 5601.4 both turn on whether the borrower owns the equipment: an owned system is a fixture that can carry appraised value, while a leased or PPA system is another company's personal property and carries none — the treatment FHA and VA apply as well. Separately, the buyer's lender must review any UCC-1 filing on the equipment and confirm the new mortgage keeps first lien position, so a fixture filing has to be released or subordinated before that loan can close. Solar is therefore an underwriting item and not merely a disclosure: it can stall a buyer's financing even when both parties are satisfied with the deal. These are the realistic paths, and the one to avoid is the sixth — neither side funds the buyout, the lender will not clear the filing, and the sale does not close.
- The buyer assumes it (lease or PPA only)
- The buyer applies to the lease or PPA provider and takes over the remaining term at the same payment and the same escalator. Approval is a credit decision: 680 is the score most providers ask for, with thresholds across the industry running roughly 650 to 700, plus the provider's written consent and a transfer fee. Watch out: Open the application weeks before closing — transfer departments are slow, and a denial discovered late reprices the whole deal. Providers also commonly refuse to assign a residential agreement to an LLC or trust, so an investor buyer usually has to sign personally.
- You pay it off before closing (loan or lease)
- You retire the loan, or exercise the lease's prepayment provision — typically the net present value of the payments left — so the system conveys free and clear. Escrow funds it from your proceeds and the UCC-1 gets released. Watch out: The cleanest outcome and the most expensive one. Get the payoff or buyout figure in writing before you set a list price, not once you are in escrow: on a 20-year agreement it is routinely five figures, and it comes straight off your net-to-seller.
- You credit the buyer instead (loan or lease)
- The contract stays where it is and you give the buyer a closing credit near the buyout amount, leaving them to decide whether to retire it or keep making the payment. Often the fastest way past an inspection-period objection. Watch out: Seller credits are capped by the buyer's loan program, and most programs will not let a credit exceed actual closing costs. Clear the number with the buyer's lender before you agree to it, or you will be renegotiating it a second time.
- A partial or split buyout (lease or PPA only)
- You prepay part of the term — the next five years is a common ask, often $9,000 to $12,000 — or split the buyout with the buyer, so what the buyer inherits is smaller or shorter rather than gone. Watch out: Not every provider permits a partial prepayment, and some that do will not reduce the escalator along with it. Confirm in writing what the money actually buys before you negotiate around the number.
- The lender's own transfer program (loan only)
- A handful of solar lenders will move a loan to a qualified buyer rather than demand payoff. It works like a lease assumption — the buyer's credit is pulled and the lender consents — and it is the only path where a financed system does not have to be retired. Watch out: Assume it is unavailable until the servicer confirms otherwise; most solar loans are simply not assumable. Note too that the lender you signed with may no longer be the one servicing the loan, which is its own delay when you need a payoff letter on a deadline.
Three warranties, three separate companies
What a proposal sells as a single 25-year warranty is usually three documents issued by three unrelated businesses, and they fail independently of one another. Ask which legal entity signed each, and get the answer in writing before signing anything.
- The company that sold it to you — Whatever the contract says — frequently marketed as 25 years
- Often nothing physical. Many of the national names selling residential solar are sales and finance organizations that subcontract the actual install. What they warrant is the promise: monitoring, service coordination, and any production or savings guarantee. If they are gone: The promise goes with them. A production guarantee is an unsecured contract claim and is discharged in bankruptcy. Read your contract to find which legal entity signed it — that name, not the logo on the truck or the door hanger, is the one that has to still exist.
- The installer (workmanship) — Usually 10 years, sometimes advertised as 25
- Labor and everything about the job that is not the equipment: roof penetrations and flashing, racking, conduit and wiring, and leaks caused by the mounts. This is the warranty you are most likely to need — water intrusion is the common solar failure, not dead panels. If they are gone: This is the layer that dies. A workmanship warranty is a service obligation of a company that no longer exists, and bankruptcy discharges it, so whoever fixes the leak afterward bills you. In Arizona the Registrar of Contractors bond and Recovery Fund is the only backstop, and it is narrow.
- The manufacturers (panels, inverter, battery, racking) — 25 years on panels, 10–25 on inverters, about 10 on racking
- The hardware itself, plus a performance floor on the panels — typically at least 85% of rated output still guaranteed at year 25. This layer does not depend on who installed the system, so it is the one that survives your installer's failure. If they are gone: Even honored, a panel warranty ships a panel and leaves you to pay someone to climb up and swap it, and most manufacturers require a certified installer to file the claim at all. Manufacturers fail too: Suniva filed Chapter 11 in 2017 and SolarWorld's German parent went insolvent the same year. A warranty is an unsecured liability.
Solar companies that have gone out of business
Residential solar has consolidated hard since 2022 under high interest rates, thin margins and expensive door-to-door sales costs. These are the failures a Tucson homeowner is most likely to be holding paper from. None of it is an argument against solar; it is an argument for weighing an installer's staying power as heavily as its price per watt, and for preferring a long-established local company with a bond over the best doorstep offer.
- Titan Solar Power (Arizona)
- Chandler, Arizona. Ceased operations June 13, 2024 and filed Chapter 7 a week later, after growing into one of the largest residential installers in the country. Its 25-year workmanship warranty went void with the company. Tucson and Phoenix homeowners were left with half-finished installs, systems never inspected or interconnected, and no one to call about a leak. Chapter 7 means liquidation, and these cases typically report no assets available for unsecured creditors — which is what a homeowner warranty claim is.
- SunPower
- Chapter 11 in August 2024, ending one of the oldest and most trusted brands in American solar. Complete Solaria bought the assets that September and later adopted the SunPower name. The brand on your panels survived; the company that signed your warranty did not. A buyer of assets in bankruptcy generally does not assume the seller's warranty liabilities, so pre-bankruptcy service, monitoring, and workmanship claims were disrupted even though the logo is still in business.
- Sunnova Energy
- Chapter 11 in June 2025. One of the largest third-party owners of residential solar leases and PPAs in the country, with hundreds of thousands of customer agreements. Leases are revenue-producing assets, so they generally get sold to another servicer rather than cancelled — but the company you call for a transfer approval, a payoff quote, or a repair changes mid-sale, and that is precisely what a seller cannot afford to have happen inside a 30-day escrow.
- Mosaic (Solar Mosaic)
- One of the largest residential solar lenders in the U.S. Filed Chapter 11 in June 2025 and exited that September. A lender failure does not erase your loan. The note gets sold and the payoff contact, the UCC-1 release, and the transfer department all move — sometimes more than once. Sellers who need a payoff letter on a closing deadline are the ones who feel it.
- Lumio
- Chapter 11 in September 2024, after assembling a national sales footprint out of several acquired regional installers. Roll-ups make the warranty question harder, not easier: the entity that signed your contract may have been a company Lumio bought, which means tracing who — if anyone — still owes you service.
- Pink Energy (formerly PowerHome Solar)
- Chapter 11 in October 2022 amid attorney-general investigations in several states over its sales practices. The earliest of the big failures, and the template for the rest: tens of thousands of customers with financed systems that underperformed what they were sold, still owing the lender, with no solvent company left to hold to the promise.
Arizona's own backstop is real but narrow. Residential contractors licensed by the Arizona Registrar of Contractors post a license bond of $4,250 to $100,000 depending on the license, and either pay into the Residential Contractors' Recovery Fund or post a second $200,000 bond. The Fund can reimburse actual damages, but the gate is tight: the homeowner must file a formal ROC complaint, that complaint must result in the license being suspended or revoked, and the license bond must be pursued to a final determination first. Deadlines run from completion of the work rather than from when a defect appeared, so a problem that surfaces years later usually falls outside it. Treat the bond and the Fund as partial recovery on a recent job, not as a substitute for a warranty from a company that still exists.
Assumptions behind the estimate
- Household consumption
- Modelled additively from the answers: a base load for lighting, refrigeration and plug loads that scales with floor area and occupants; cooling from square footage adjusted for system type, construction era and thermostat habit; then heating, water heating, cooking, pool pumping and heating, and EV charging counted only where they actually run on electricity, since a gas furnace, gas water heater, gas range or gas pool heater contributes little more than a fan or a control board to the electric bill.
- Annual production
- 1800 kWh per kW per year for a south-facing, unshaded Tucson array, then reduced for the roof's actual orientation and shading.
- Installed cost
- Modelled as $4,000 of fixed cost — permitting, design, interconnection, inspection, inverter, truck rolls — plus 2.50 dollars per watt DC, so the effective price per watt falls as the array grows, the way installers actually quote. That works out to roughly 3.55 dollars per watt on a 2.3 kW system and 2.34 on a 12 kW one, matching the Tucson market as of July 2026. Add $12,000 for a battery.
- Retail and export rates
- 0.14 dollars per kWh retail against a 0.057 dollar per kWh TEP Resource Comparison Proxy export credit.
- Federal tax credit
- Zero, reflecting the Section 25D termination for systems placed in service after December 31, 2025. A lease or PPA is modelled with no homeowner credit either, since the installer owns the system and claims Section 48E itself.
- Arizona tax credit
- 25 percent of installed cost capped at $1,000 under A.R.S. § 43-1083, claimed on Arizona Form 310, with a five-year carryforward. Not available on a leased or PPA system, which the installer owns.
- Self-consumption
- Modelled as a saturating curve approaching 35 percent of annual load without storage and 75 percent with a battery, so a smaller array self-consumes a larger share of what it makes.
- Degradation and escalation
- 0.5 percent output loss per year against an assumed 3 percent annual utility rate increase, over a 25-year analysis.
- Roof replacement
- About $450 per kW, minimum $800, charged in the year the roof covering is likely to run out, to pull the array off for a new roof and reset it.
These are educational estimates, not a solar quote, a bid, or tax advice. Kyle Berglund is a REALTOR® serving Tucson and Pima County, not a solar contractor or a CPA. Real production depends on a site survey and real pricing depends on the installer, so get at least two written quotes and take the tax questions to a CPA. Where a REALTOR® adds value is the question solar conversations skip: what the decision does to the home when it sells.
Frequently asked questions
Is solar worth it in Tucson in 2026?
It depends far more on how long you are staying than on how much sun you get. Tucson has some of the best solar resource in the country — a south-facing, unshaded array produces roughly 1,800 kWh per kW per year — but two things changed the math. The federal 30% residential credit ended for systems placed in service after December 31, 2025, and TEP credits exported power at about $0.057/kWh instead of the retail rate. Together those push a typical cash purchase to roughly 18–21 years to break even. If you are paying cash and staying for the long haul, solar still comes out ahead of the utility over 25 years. If you are selling in 5–10, or financing at current rates, you will likely hand most or all of the benefit to someone else.
How do you estimate my electric usage without my bill?
From the things that actually drive a Tucson power bill. Cooling is the big one — this calculator starts from your square footage and adjusts for whether you run refrigerated air or an evaporative cooler, how old the house is, and how cold you keep it. Then it adds the loads that are either electric or not: an electric furnace or heat pump versus gas, an electric water heater versus gas, a pool pump, and EV charging. Gas appliances contribute almost nothing to the electric bill, which is why the gas-versus-electric answers move the result so much. If you know your actual average bill, enter it and the estimate steps aside.
Did the 30% federal solar tax credit really go away?
Yes, for homeowners who buy. The One Big Beautiful Bill, signed July 4, 2025, terminated the Section 25D residential clean energy credit for expenditures made after December 31, 2025 — with no phase-down and no transition period. The IRS treats the expenditure as made when installation is complete, so a system finished in 2026 gets nothing even if you put a deposit down in 2025. Third-party ownership is the exception: with a lease or PPA the installer owns the system and can still claim the Section 48E commercial credit through 2027, which is why lease offers have gotten more aggressive relative to purchase offers.
What incentives are still available for Arizona homeowners?
Three worth counting. Arizona's Residential Solar Energy Credit (A.R.S. § 43-1083) is 25% of the installed cost capped at $1,000, claimed on Form 310, with a five-year carryforward if you cannot use it all at once. Solar equipment is exempt from Arizona sales tax. And A.R.S. § 42-11054 exempts the added value of a solar energy device from property tax assessment, so the improvement does not raise your tax bill. On a $22,000 system that adds up to about $1,000 of direct credit — meaningful, but not the $6,600 the federal credit used to provide.
Why does TEP's export rate matter so much?
Because it decides what your surplus is worth. Arizona ended traditional retail net metering in 2016. TEP now credits exported power at the Resource Comparison Proxy rate — about $0.057 per kWh — while you buy power back near $0.14. A kilowatt-hour you use the moment you make it is worth roughly two and a half times one you send to the grid. That single fact is why a solar system here saves you far less than its production would suggest: a system covering 90% of your annual usage typically cuts the bill by only about half, because most of what it makes in the middle of the day gets exported at the lower rate. The RCP rate you are given is locked for 10 years from your interconnection request.
Should I get a bigger system or a smaller one?
It matters far less than people expect. Running the same Tucson home at three sizes moves the break-even year by only about a year and a half, and the 25-year result by roughly a thousand dollars — the middle size edges out the others, but not by enough to agonise over. Two effects cancel each other: a bigger array exports more of its output at the low $0.057 rate, which hurts, but it also spreads the fixed costs of permitting, design, inverter and labour over more panels, which helps. If you want a rule of thumb, size to your daytime load and stop; but do not let anyone tell you the size decision is what makes or breaks the investment. What you pay per watt matters much more.
What should a solar system cost in Tucson?
Budget roughly $3.00 per watt installed for a typical residential array, which puts an 8 kW system near $24,000 and a 12 kW system near $34,000 before incentives. The per-watt price falls as the system grows, because permitting, design, the inverter, and the crew cost about the same either way — expect closer to $4.00 per watt on a very small array and under $2.90 on a large one. The spread between installers is the number worth chasing: national brands like Tesla and Sunrun typically quote $3.00–$3.30 per watt while established local Tucson shops come in around $2.50–$2.75 for comparable equipment. On a $24,000 system that difference is several thousand dollars and several years of payback — a far bigger lever than choosing between a 6 kW and an 8 kW array.
How long does solar take to pay for itself in Tucson?
For a cash purchase at 2026 Tucson prices and incentives, expect roughly 18 to 21 years — and a financed system may never get there. The range moves with what you pay per watt, how much of the output you use on site rather than export, and your roof's direction and shading. System size barely moves it. Quotes advertising 6-to-8-year payback are almost always still applying the expired 30% federal credit, assuming full retail credit for exports, or both. Ask any installer to show you their export-rate assumption in writing — that single number moves payback by years.
Is a battery worth adding in Tucson?
Rarely on economics alone, though it is the single best way to beat the export rate. A battery moves midday surplus into the evening peak, which can lift the share of output you use on site from roughly a third to two thirds — real money, since those kilowatt-hours are worth $0.14 instead of $0.057. The problem is the price. At current costs a whole-home battery adds enough up front that it typically lengthens payback rather than shortening it. Buy one for backup power during monsoon-season outages and treat the bill savings as a bonus, not the other way around.
Over 25 years, is solar actually cheaper than just paying the electric bill?
If you pay cash, usually yes. If you finance it, often no. The calculator adds up everything you spend across 25 years — the system plus whatever electric bill is left afterward — and compares it against doing nothing, because doing nothing is not free either. On a typical Tucson home a cash purchase comes out several thousand dollars ahead of staying on the utility. The same system on a 15-year loan at current rates can finish thousands of dollars behind, because the interest costs more than the extra electricity would have. A 20-year lease usually lands in between and close to a wash. That is the arithmetic solar proposals leave out: they compare the system against your bill, not against your bill plus the financing.
Does the calculator account for panels wearing out?
It accounts for them producing less, yes. Panels lose about half a percent of their output every year, so an array making 6,400 kWh in year one is down to roughly 5,700 by year 25 — that decline is applied to every year of the savings figures, and it is one reason payback lands later than a simple division of cost by first-year savings would suggest. What the totals deliberately do not do is assign a resale value to the equipment at the end. That cuts against the lease: after 25 years a cash or financed buyer still owns a working array, while a lease holder owns nothing and faces a buyout, a renewal, or removal. Since no residual value is credited to anyone, read the lease total as a floor rather than a like-for-like comparison.
Does solar add value when I sell my Tucson home?
An owned system usually does; a leased one usually does not. Appraisers can credit a paid-off, owned array, though the amount comes from comparable sales rather than from what you spent — so recovering the full install cost is not the norm. A leased or PPA system is typically assigned no appraised value at all, because you do not own it. The practical rule: owned and paid off is an asset, financed is an asset with a lien to clear, and leased is a contract the buyer has to agree to inherit.
What happens to a solar loan when I sell?
It has to be dealt with at closing. Most solar loans place a UCC-1 fixture filing against the property, which the title company will find. It must be paid off, released, or formally subordinated so the buyer's new mortgage sits in first position. In practice that means the remaining balance comes out of your sale proceeds. If you owe more than the system adds to your price, solar costs you money on the sale — which is the single most common way a good-intentioned solar decision goes wrong for a Tucson seller.
Can I sell a house with leased solar panels?
Yes, but it narrows your buyer pool and it belongs in the listing, not in the inspection report. A lease is a 15-to-20-year contract you are asking a stranger to inherit, and some buyers decline on principle no matter how good the payment looks. Disclose it up front with the agreement, the current payment, the escalator, the remaining term, and the buyout figure all in the file — a buyer who learns about it on day 12 of a 15-day inspection period tends to use it as leverage or walk. Then pick your path early: assumption, buyout, credit, or a partial prepayment. Every one of them needs the provider's cooperation, and their transfer departments do not work on escrow's clock.
How does a buyer's lender treat solar panels on the house?
It turns entirely on whether you own them. Fannie Mae's Selling Guide B2-3-04 and Freddie Mac's Guide § 5601.4 both draw the same line: an owned system is a fixture that can contribute to appraised value, while a leased or PPA system is personal property belonging to someone else and contributes nothing — the same treatment FHA and VA apply. Separately, the lender has to review any UCC-1 filing on the equipment and confirm the new mortgage still sits in first lien position, which means a fixture filing has to be released or subordinated before the loan can close. That is why solar shows up as an underwriting item and not just a disclosure: it can hold up the buyer's financing even when both parties are happy with the deal.
What credit score does a buyer need to assume my solar lease?
Plan on 680. That is the score most lease and PPA providers ask for, with thresholds across the industry running roughly 650 to 700, and it is the provider's decision rather than the lender's. On top of the score you need the provider's written consent and usually a transfer fee. Two practical warnings: start the application weeks before closing, because transfer departments move slowly and a denial found late reprices the whole deal; and know that providers commonly refuse to assign a residential agreement to an LLC or a trust, so an investor buyer generally has to sign personally or the assumption is off the table.
What are my options if I sell before the solar is paid off?
There are five realistic ones, and which are open to you depends on whether you leased or financed. A buyer can assume a lease or PPA if they qualify. You can pay it off out of proceeds — a loan payoff, or a lease prepayment usually priced as the net present value of the remaining payments. You can leave the contract in place and credit the buyer roughly the buyout amount, subject to your buyer's loan program capping seller credits. On a lease you can sometimes prepay part of the term, or split the buyout with the buyer. And a few solar lenders run their own transfer program, though most loans are simply not assumable. Sort out which of these is available before you list, because the one outcome nobody plans for is the deal that does not close because neither side will fund the buyout and the buyer's lender will not clear the filing.
What happens to my solar warranty if the company goes out of business?
Some of it survives and some of it evaporates, which is why it matters that a "25-year warranty" is usually three documents from three unrelated companies. The manufacturer warranties on the panels, inverter, and racking travel with the hardware and outlive your installer — but they cover parts and not labor, so a claim ships you a panel and leaves you paying someone to install it, and most manufacturers require a certified installer to file it at all. The installer's workmanship warranty is the one that dies: roof penetrations, flashing, racking, and wiring are a service obligation of a company that no longer exists, and bankruptcy discharges it. Any production or savings guarantee from the sales company is likewise an unsecured contract claim. Manufacturers are not immune either — Suniva filed Chapter 11 in 2017 and SolarWorld's German parent went insolvent the same year. Third-party, insurer-backed warranty programs are the exception, because they do not depend on the installer surviving.
Which solar companies have gone out of business?
Enough of them that it is a real diligence question rather than a scare tactic. The one that hit Arizona hardest was Titan Solar Power of Chandler, which ceased operations in June 2024 and filed Chapter 7 days later, voiding a 25-year workmanship warranty and leaving Tucson and Phoenix homeowners with unfinished installs. SunPower — one of the oldest names in the industry — filed Chapter 11 in August 2024; its assets and eventually its name were bought, but the entity that wrote the old warranties did not survive. Sunnova, a major lease and PPA owner, filed Chapter 11 in June 2025, and Mosaic, one of the largest residential solar lenders, filed the same month. Lumio filed in September 2024, ADT Solar wound down its residential business in 2024, and Pink Energy — formerly PowerHome Solar — filed back in October 2022. The lesson is not to avoid solar; it is to weigh the installer's staying power as heavily as the price per watt, and to prefer a long-established local shop with a bond over the best door-to-door offer.
Does Arizona protect me if my solar installer goes under?
A little, and the door closes fast. Residential contractors licensed by the Arizona Registrar of Contractors must post a license bond — from $4,250 up to $100,000 depending on the license — and either pay into the Residential Contractors' Recovery Fund or post a second $200,000 bond. The Recovery Fund can reimburse actual damages, but the qualifying conditions are strict: you have to file a formal complaint with the ROC, that complaint has to result in the license being suspended or revoked, and you must first pursue the license bond and get a final determination on it before the Fund is even reachable. Deadlines run from the completion of work, not from when you discovered the problem, so a defect that surfaces years later is usually outside it. Treat the bond and the Fund as a partial recovery mechanism for a recent job, not as a substitute for a 25-year warranty from a company that still exists.
Should I replace my roof before installing solar?
If the roof has fewer than about 10 years left, yes. Panels last 25+ years, so a roof replaced underneath them means paying to remove and reinstall the array — commonly $1,500 to $4,000 on top of the roofing itself, and more if the racking or flashing has to be redone. Reroofing first is almost always cheaper than reroofing twice around an array. This calculator charges a removal-and-reinstall cost in whatever year your roof is likely to run out, which is why an older roof pushes payback out noticeably.
Can my HOA stop me from installing solar in Arizona?
Not outright. A.R.S. § 33-439 makes any covenant that effectively prohibits the installation or use of a solar energy device void as against public policy. HOAs may still impose reasonable rules on placement and appearance, but they cannot use them to make a system unworkable or prohibitively expensive. In practice most Tucson-area HOAs have an architectural review step rather than a prohibition. Submit the plan set, keep the approval in writing, and put it in the file you hand your buyer at resale.
Is this calculator a solar quote?
No — it is an educational estimate, and Kyle Berglund is a REALTOR®, not a solar contractor or a tax advisor. Real production depends on a site survey, real pricing depends on the installer and equipment, and how the credits apply depends on your tax situation. Use this to decide whether solar is worth pricing out at all, get at least two written quotes if it is, and take the tax questions to a CPA. Where Kyle can genuinely help is the part most solar conversations skip: what your decision does to your home when you go to sell it.